Getting paid · Trades
Customer won't pay after the job? Here's what actually works.
You finished the work. The customer has the working furnace, the clean driveway, the new panel — and now they won't answer the phone. Here's the honest version of what you can do about it, roughly in order of what it costs you, plus the uncomfortable truth that runs through all of it: every option after the job is done recovers less than simply not extending credit to a stranger in the first place.
- Start with a documented call, then a written demand. Most payments that are ever going to arrive arrive here.
- A mechanic's lien is real leverage, but the deadlines are short, state-specific, and unforgiving.
- Small claims is cheap to file and slow to finish — and winning is not the same as collecting.
- Collections agencies commonly take a 25–50% cut, and often can't resolve a genuinely disputed invoice.
- Every remedy costs more and returns less than getting a signed scope and an authorized card before you start.
First, figure out which problem you actually have
"Won't pay" covers three different situations, and they don't respond to the same treatment. Spending a week on the wrong one is how a $2,400 invoice turns into a $2,400 invoice plus a wasted week.
- Can't pay. The money isn't there. They may genuinely intend to pay you. A payment plan you actually write down recovers more here than any threat will.
- Won't pay — disputed. They're unhappy with something, real or invented. This is the one where your documentation decides the outcome, and where collections agencies tend to fail.
- Won't pay — ghosting. No complaint, no answer, no intention. This is the one where formal pressure (lien, court) works best, because there's no argument to have.
You usually find out which one you have on the first real conversation. That's the main reason the first step below is still a phone call, even when you're past being polite about it.
Step 1: The documented call, then the written demand
Call once. Be direct, be unemotional, and ask one question: is there a problem with the work, or is this a timing problem with the money? Then write down what they said, with the date. If they don't pick up, leave one message and move on — repeated calls stop being pressure and start being something a lawyer can characterise as harassment.
Then send a written demand. Not an angry letter — a boring one. It should state the work performed, the date completed, the amount owed, the original terms, and a specific deadline. Send it in a way that creates a record: email is fine, certified mail is better if you think you're heading to court.
This step feels too simple to matter and it is, by a wide margin, where most of the money that ever gets recovered actually gets recovered. A written demand also does double duty: if you do end up in front of a judge, "I asked in writing on this date and got no response" is a much stronger position than "I called a bunch of times."
Step 2: Mechanic's lien — real leverage, short fuse
A mechanic's lien (sometimes called a construction or materialman's lien) attaches a claim to the property you worked on. It's powerful because it follows the property: an owner who wants to sell or refinance generally has to clear it. For a lot of tradespeople it's the single strongest tool available.
It also has the sharpest edges of anything on this list:
- The deadlines are short and vary by state, often measured in weeks to a few months from last day of work or last delivery of materials. Miss the window and the tool is simply gone.
- Many states require a preliminary notice early in the job — sometimes before you've even been stiffed — and skipping it can forfeit your lien rights entirely.
- The paperwork has to be right. Wrong property description, wrong owner name, wrong dates, and it may be invalid.
- Filing one you're not entitled to can rebound on you. Some states impose real penalties for an improper or exaggerated lien.
The practical read: liens make sense on larger jobs, on real property, when you're still inside the window and your paperwork from the job is clean. They make much less sense for a $400 service call. Because the rules are genuinely state-specific, this is the step where a one-hour consult with a local construction attorney frequently pays for itself — and where generic advice from the internet, including this article, is worth exactly what you paid for it.
Step 3: Small claims court
Small claims is designed for exactly this: modest amounts, no lawyer required, simplified procedure. Filing fees are typically modest, and the dollar ceiling varies quite a bit by state — anywhere from a few thousand dollars to the mid five figures — so check your own state's limit before you assume your invoice qualifies.
What people underestimate is the gap between winning and collecting. A judgment is a piece of paper saying you're owed money. If the customer still won't pay, you're then into enforcement — wage garnishment, bank levies, liens on property — each of which is its own process with its own paperwork and, often, its own fees. A judgment against someone with no attachable assets is a moral victory.
Small claims is still worth it when: the amount is meaningful, you have documentation, the customer is findable and appears to have assets or income, and you can afford the day off. Bring the signed scope, the photos, the invoice, the demand letter, and the record of their response. Judges in these rooms decide fast and they decide on documents.
Step 4: Collections agencies
Agencies work on contingency, and for small commercial or consumer debt the rate commonly lands somewhere in the 25–50% range, climbing as the debt gets older and colder. Some also charge placement fees. Do the arithmetic before you sign: half of a maybe is not obviously better than the whole of a write-off plus your time back.
Agencies also tend to be least effective on precisely the case tradespeople hit most: the disputed invoice. If the customer's story is "the work was bad," an agency has no mechanism to adjudicate that. They apply pressure. A determined customer with a complaint can absorb a lot of pressure.
One thing to be careful about: whoever collects on your behalf is operating in a regulated space, and consumer-debt collection in particular has real rules about contact and conduct. That's a reason to use an established agency rather than an aggressive one, and a reason not to hire your cousin to go knock on a door.
What each option actually costs you
Rough, practical comparison — not legal advice, and every one of these varies by state and by how clean your paperwork is:
| Option | Out-of-pocket | Your time | Works best when | Main risk |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Call + written demand | Effectively nothing | An hour | Always — do this first, every time | None, if you keep it factual |
| Mechanic's lien | Filing fee; often attorney help | Hours, plus strict deadlines | Larger jobs on real property, early | Missed window; penalties if filed wrongly |
| Small claims | Modest filing fee | A day in court, plus prep | Documented job, findable customer with assets | Winning but never collecting |
| Collections agency | Commonly 25–50% of what's recovered | Low, after handoff | Clear, undisputed, unpaid invoice | Little leverage on a disputed bill |
| Write it off | The invoice | None | Small balance, no documentation, no time | It teaches you nothing unless you change the front end |
Read down that "your time" column and the real cost shows up. A day in small claims is a day not on a job. For a lot of one-truck operations, the billable day is worth more than the invoice being chased.
The part nobody wants to hear
Every option above is damage control, and they share one property: they all happen after you've already handed over the value. You did the work, they have the result, and now you're the one who has to spend money and time to claw back what you already earned. That asymmetry is the whole problem, and no collections tactic fixes it — it just splits the loss differently.
The trades that get stiffed least aren't the ones with the best demand letters. They're the ones who never got into the position in the first place, using boring, unglamorous front-end habits:
- A written scope the customer signs before anything starts — what's included, what isn't, what it costs, what happens if it changes. Most "disputes" are scope arguments in disguise.
- Money committed before the work. A deposit, a card on file, an authorized hold — something that means a stranger isn't getting six hours of your labour on trust alone.
- Before-and-after photos, time-stamped. Free, takes thirty seconds, and it's the single most useful thing you can hand a judge or a card issuer.
- Payment due on completion, not "net 30" by accident. A lot of tradespeople extend credit without ever deciding to.
None of that is exciting. All of it is cheaper than the four steps above.
A note on what this is. This is a practical overview from people who build software for tradespeople, not legal advice. Lien deadlines, small-claims limits, and collection rules genuinely differ state to state, and the details decide these cases. Before you file anything, check your own state's rules or spend an hour with a local attorney.
Moving the leverage to before the job
The mechanic that hotels and rental-car companies use is a card authorization: the customer's card is checked and a hold is placed for the expected amount before service, and the actual charge happens after. Nobody finds this outrageous when they check into a hotel. Applied to trades, it means you find out whether a customer can actually pay before you unload the trailer, not after.
That's the idea behind PaidUp — a signed scope, an authorized card, and documented completion, so the leverage sits before the work instead of after it. It's in development and currently open as a waitlist, not a live product, so treat the link as "watch this" rather than "go sign up today." If you want the mechanic explained properly first, we wrote that up separately: how a credit card hold actually works.
Did the work. Got stiffed.
PaidUp locks in payment before the job starts — signed scope, authorized card, documented completion. Join the waitlist and we'll tell you when it's live.
See PaidUp →Frequently asked questions
What can I do if a customer refuses to pay after the work is done?
Is a mechanic's lien worth filing for a small job?
How much does a collections agency take?
Can I charge late fees or interest?
How do I stop this happening again?
Written by the team at SwiftAppLab, which builds PaidUp and NeverMissAI for people who work with their hands.
PaidUp