PaidUp by SwiftAppLab logo PaidUp Did the work. Got stiffed.

Getting paid · Trades

Customer won't pay after the job? Here's what actually works.

Updated July 2026 · By the team behind PaidUp · 9-minute read

You finished the work. The customer has the working furnace, the clean driveway, the new panel — and now they won't answer the phone. Here's the honest version of what you can do about it, roughly in order of what it costs you, plus the uncomfortable truth that runs through all of it: every option after the job is done recovers less than simply not extending credit to a stranger in the first place.

TL;DR

First, figure out which problem you actually have

"Won't pay" covers three different situations, and they don't respond to the same treatment. Spending a week on the wrong one is how a $2,400 invoice turns into a $2,400 invoice plus a wasted week.

You usually find out which one you have on the first real conversation. That's the main reason the first step below is still a phone call, even when you're past being polite about it.

Step 1: The documented call, then the written demand

Call once. Be direct, be unemotional, and ask one question: is there a problem with the work, or is this a timing problem with the money? Then write down what they said, with the date. If they don't pick up, leave one message and move on — repeated calls stop being pressure and start being something a lawyer can characterise as harassment.

Then send a written demand. Not an angry letter — a boring one. It should state the work performed, the date completed, the amount owed, the original terms, and a specific deadline. Send it in a way that creates a record: email is fine, certified mail is better if you think you're heading to court.

This step feels too simple to matter and it is, by a wide margin, where most of the money that ever gets recovered actually gets recovered. A written demand also does double duty: if you do end up in front of a judge, "I asked in writing on this date and got no response" is a much stronger position than "I called a bunch of times."

Step 2: Mechanic's lien — real leverage, short fuse

A mechanic's lien (sometimes called a construction or materialman's lien) attaches a claim to the property you worked on. It's powerful because it follows the property: an owner who wants to sell or refinance generally has to clear it. For a lot of tradespeople it's the single strongest tool available.

It also has the sharpest edges of anything on this list:

The practical read: liens make sense on larger jobs, on real property, when you're still inside the window and your paperwork from the job is clean. They make much less sense for a $400 service call. Because the rules are genuinely state-specific, this is the step where a one-hour consult with a local construction attorney frequently pays for itself — and where generic advice from the internet, including this article, is worth exactly what you paid for it.

Step 3: Small claims court

Small claims is designed for exactly this: modest amounts, no lawyer required, simplified procedure. Filing fees are typically modest, and the dollar ceiling varies quite a bit by state — anywhere from a few thousand dollars to the mid five figures — so check your own state's limit before you assume your invoice qualifies.

What people underestimate is the gap between winning and collecting. A judgment is a piece of paper saying you're owed money. If the customer still won't pay, you're then into enforcement — wage garnishment, bank levies, liens on property — each of which is its own process with its own paperwork and, often, its own fees. A judgment against someone with no attachable assets is a moral victory.

Small claims is still worth it when: the amount is meaningful, you have documentation, the customer is findable and appears to have assets or income, and you can afford the day off. Bring the signed scope, the photos, the invoice, the demand letter, and the record of their response. Judges in these rooms decide fast and they decide on documents.

Step 4: Collections agencies

Agencies work on contingency, and for small commercial or consumer debt the rate commonly lands somewhere in the 25–50% range, climbing as the debt gets older and colder. Some also charge placement fees. Do the arithmetic before you sign: half of a maybe is not obviously better than the whole of a write-off plus your time back.

Agencies also tend to be least effective on precisely the case tradespeople hit most: the disputed invoice. If the customer's story is "the work was bad," an agency has no mechanism to adjudicate that. They apply pressure. A determined customer with a complaint can absorb a lot of pressure.

One thing to be careful about: whoever collects on your behalf is operating in a regulated space, and consumer-debt collection in particular has real rules about contact and conduct. That's a reason to use an established agency rather than an aggressive one, and a reason not to hire your cousin to go knock on a door.

What each option actually costs you

Rough, practical comparison — not legal advice, and every one of these varies by state and by how clean your paperwork is:

OptionOut-of-pocketYour timeWorks best whenMain risk
Call + written demandEffectively nothingAn hourAlways — do this first, every timeNone, if you keep it factual
Mechanic's lienFiling fee; often attorney helpHours, plus strict deadlinesLarger jobs on real property, earlyMissed window; penalties if filed wrongly
Small claimsModest filing feeA day in court, plus prepDocumented job, findable customer with assetsWinning but never collecting
Collections agencyCommonly 25–50% of what's recoveredLow, after handoffClear, undisputed, unpaid invoiceLittle leverage on a disputed bill
Write it offThe invoiceNoneSmall balance, no documentation, no timeIt teaches you nothing unless you change the front end

Read down that "your time" column and the real cost shows up. A day in small claims is a day not on a job. For a lot of one-truck operations, the billable day is worth more than the invoice being chased.

The part nobody wants to hear

Every option above is damage control, and they share one property: they all happen after you've already handed over the value. You did the work, they have the result, and now you're the one who has to spend money and time to claw back what you already earned. That asymmetry is the whole problem, and no collections tactic fixes it — it just splits the loss differently.

The trades that get stiffed least aren't the ones with the best demand letters. They're the ones who never got into the position in the first place, using boring, unglamorous front-end habits:

None of that is exciting. All of it is cheaper than the four steps above.

A note on what this is. This is a practical overview from people who build software for tradespeople, not legal advice. Lien deadlines, small-claims limits, and collection rules genuinely differ state to state, and the details decide these cases. Before you file anything, check your own state's rules or spend an hour with a local attorney.

Moving the leverage to before the job

The mechanic that hotels and rental-car companies use is a card authorization: the customer's card is checked and a hold is placed for the expected amount before service, and the actual charge happens after. Nobody finds this outrageous when they check into a hotel. Applied to trades, it means you find out whether a customer can actually pay before you unload the trailer, not after.

That's the idea behind PaidUp — a signed scope, an authorized card, and documented completion, so the leverage sits before the work instead of after it. It's in development and currently open as a waitlist, not a live product, so treat the link as "watch this" rather than "go sign up today." If you want the mechanic explained properly first, we wrote that up separately: how a credit card hold actually works.

Did the work. Got stiffed.

PaidUp locks in payment before the job starts — signed scope, authorized card, documented completion. Join the waitlist and we'll tell you when it's live.

See PaidUp →

Frequently asked questions

What can I do if a customer refuses to pay after the work is done?
In rough order of cost: a documented phone call, then a written demand letter, then a mechanic's lien if you're still inside your state's filing window, then small claims, then a collections agency. Each step costs more time and returns a smaller share of the invoice.
Is a mechanic's lien worth filing for a small job?
Often not. Deadlines are short and state-specific, the paperwork usually has to be exact, and an improperly filed lien can create problems of its own. For a few hundred dollars, filing and time costs can approach the debt. Liens make most sense on larger jobs where the property is the leverage.
How much does a collections agency take?
Contingency rates for small commercial and consumer debt commonly run in the 25–50% range, with older debt at the top end. On a genuinely disputed invoice you may recover nothing, because an agency can't adjudicate a complaint the way a court can.
Can I charge late fees or interest?
Sometimes — but generally only if it was agreed up front, in writing, and only within limits your state allows. A late fee invented after the invoice went unpaid is difficult to enforce and easy for a customer to contest. Put the terms in the scope you have signed before the work.
How do I stop this happening again?
Move the leverage to before the work starts: a written scope they sign, a deposit or authorized card on file, and time-stamped photos of the finished job. Every remedy after the fact is slower and recovers less than not extending credit to a stranger.

Written by the team at SwiftAppLab, which builds PaidUp and NeverMissAI for people who work with their hands.